INGREDIENT GLOSSARY

A–C

The science behind the ingredients in skincare.

An evolving reference to cosmetic ingredients, their chemistry, biological activity, functions in formulations, and relevance to skin.

A

Acacia Gum

Also known as: Gum arabic, acacia senegal gum
Type: Natural polysaccharide / botanical gum

A water-soluble gum obtained primarily from species of Acacia and Senegalia. In cosmetics, it functions mainly as a film-former, stabilizer, thickener, and skin-conditioning ingredient.

In skincare: Helps form a light film on the skin and can contribute to a smoother, tighter-feeling surface.

Formulation note: Useful in emulsions, masks, serums, and gel systems where film formation or viscosity modification is desired.

Acetyl Glucosamine

Also known as: N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine, NAG
Type: Amino sugar

A naturally occurring derivative of glucose and a component of biological molecules including glycosaminoglycans.

In skincare: Associated with skin barrier support, hydration, and modulation of pigmentation pathways. It is particularly interesting in formulations addressing uneven skin tone.

Skin biology: N-acetylglucosamine is involved in the biosynthesis of hyaluronic-acid-related structures and other glycoconjugates.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Also known as: Argireline
Type: Synthetic peptide

A cosmetic peptide designed to influence mechanisms involved in facial expression lines.

In skincare: Primarily used in formulations targeting the appearance of expression lines and wrinkles.

Formulation note: Peptides are generally incorporated into the cool-down phase of formulations according to supplier recommendations.

Adenosine

Type: Nucleoside

A naturally occurring molecule composed of adenine and ribose and involved in cellular energy metabolism and signaling.

In skincare: Used primarily for its skin-conditioning and anti-aging positioning, particularly in products formulated for the appearance of fine lines.

Alcohol

Also known as: Ethanol, ethyl alcohol
Type: Volatile organic compound

A small alcohol frequently used in cosmetics as a solvent, carrier, antimicrobial aid, and sensory modifier.

In skincare: Can produce a lightweight, rapidly evaporating skin feel and improve dissolution of certain ingredients.

Important distinction: "Alcohol" on an ingredient list does not mean all alcohols are equivalent. Fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol behave very differently.

Allantoin

Type: Heterocyclic compound / skin protectant

A compound widely used in cosmetics for its soothing, skin-conditioning, and protective properties.

In skincare: Frequently included in products intended for dry, rough, sensitive, or irritated-feeling skin.

Formulation note: Often used at relatively low concentrations because of its limited solubility.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Common name: Aloe vera
Type: Botanical ingredient

Juice derived from the leaves of Aloe barbadensis.

In skincare: Valued for its hydrating, soothing, and conditioning properties.

Skin biology: Aloe preparations contain polysaccharides and other naturally occurring constituents, although composition varies substantially according to cultivation, processing, and purification.

Alpha-Arbutin

Type: Glycosylated hydroquinone derivative

A naturally occurring glycoside used in cosmetic formulations targeting uneven pigmentation and the appearance of dark spots.

In skincare: Primarily associated with modulation of tyrosinase-related melanogenesis.

Formulation note: Stability, pH, concentration, packaging, and exposure to heat and light are important formulation considerations.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Abbreviation: AHAs
Type: Organic acids

A family of acids including glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and citric acid.

In skincare: AHAs can promote exfoliation, smoother texture, improved radiance, and reduction in the appearance of fine lines and uneven pigmentation.

Skin biology: Their effects are strongly influenced by concentration, pH, free-acid availability, formulation vehicle, and exposure time.

Ascorbic Acid

Common name: Vitamin C
Type: Water-soluble antioxidant / organic acid

The biologically active form of vitamin C used in skincare formulations.

In skincare: Supports antioxidant defense and is involved biologically in collagen synthesis. Topical formulations are also used to address the appearance of uneven pigmentation and photodamage.

Formulation challenge: Ascorbic acid is relatively unstable in aqueous formulations and can undergo oxidation when exposed to oxygen, light, heat, and unfavorable pH conditions.

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Type: Vitamin C derivative

A glucoside derivative of ascorbic acid designed to provide improved formulation stability compared with pure ascorbic acid.

In skincare: Used in products targeting antioxidant protection, radiance, and uneven pigmentation.

Azelaic Acid

Type: Dicarboxylic acid

A naturally occurring saturated dicarboxylic acid found in certain grains.

In skincare: Used extensively in formulations addressing blemishes, uneven pigmentation, redness, and irregular skin texture.

Skin biology: Its multifunctional activity makes it particularly interesting for formulations addressing both pigmentation and blemish-prone skin.

B

Bakuchiol

Type: Botanical-derived meroterpene

A naturally occurring compound obtained primarily from Psoralea corylifolia (also known as Cullen corylifolium).

In skincare: Widely used as a botanical ingredient in products targeting fine lines, uneven texture, and signs of photoaging.

Important distinction: Bakuchiol is chemically distinct from retinoids despite often being marketed as a "retinol alternative."

Beeswax

INCI: Cera Alba / Cera Flava
Type: Natural wax

A complex mixture of esters, hydrocarbons, fatty acids, and other components produced by honeybees.

In skincare: Functions primarily as an occlusive, consistency agent, emollient, and structuring material.

Formulation note: Particularly useful in balms, salves, sticks, creams, and anhydrous formulations.

Beta-Glucan

Type: Polysaccharide

A family of glucose polymers found in sources including oats, yeast, fungi, and certain plants.

In skincare: Used for hydration, soothing, skin conditioning, and barrier-supportive formulations.

Skin biology: Molecular structure and source influence biological behavior; not all beta-glucans are functionally identical.

Betaine

Also known as: Trimethylglycine
Type: Osmolyte / amino-acid derivative

A naturally occurring zwitterionic compound involved in cellular osmotic regulation.

In skincare: Functions primarily as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent.

Formulation benefit: Can contribute to a softer skin feel and help reduce the harsh sensory characteristics of some cleansing systems.

Biotin

Common name: Vitamin B7
Type: Water-soluble vitamin

A cofactor required for several carboxylation reactions involved in metabolism.

In skincare: Used in some cosmetic formulations for hair and skin conditioning, although topical cosmetic applications should not be confused with systemic nutritional supplementation.

Bisabolol

Type: Sesquiterpene alcohol

A naturally occurring compound found notably in German chamomile and other botanical sources.

In skincare: Valued primarily for its soothing and skin-conditioning properties.

Formulation note: Frequently used in products designed for sensitive or easily irritated skin.

Butylene Glycol

Type: Diol / solvent / humectant

A multifunctional cosmetic ingredient used extensively in skincare formulations.

In skincare: Helps attract and retain water while also functioning as a solvent, viscosity modifier, and formulation aid.

Formulation benefit: Can improve spreadability and help dissolve or distribute other ingredients.

C

Caffeine

Type: Methylxanthine alkaloid

A naturally occurring stimulant found in coffee, tea, cacao, and other plants.

In skincare: Used primarily for its antioxidant, conditioning, and de-puffing positioning, particularly in eye-area formulations.

Ceramides

Type: Sphingolipids / skin lipids

A family of lipids naturally present within the stratum corneum.

In skincare: Ceramides are fundamental to barrier structure and water-loss regulation.

Skin biology: Together with cholesterol and free fatty acids, ceramides form organized extracellular lipid structures between corneocytes.

Formulation note: Ceramide type, concentration, delivery system, and lipid composition all influence performance.

Cetyl Alcohol

Type: Fatty alcohol

A long-chain fatty alcohol derived from natural or synthetic sources.

In skincare: Functions as an emollient, thickener, consistency agent, and co-emulsifier.

Important distinction: Despite containing the word "alcohol," cetyl alcohol is not comparable to volatile alcohols such as ethanol.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Type: Fatty alcohol mixture

Usually composed primarily of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

In skincare: Provides emollience, viscosity, structure, and stability to creams and lotions.

Formulation note: Commonly used with emulsifiers to create rich, stable cream textures.

Cetearyl Glucoside

Type: Nonionic emulsifier

An emulsifying ingredient derived from fatty alcohols and glucose.

In skincare: Helps combine oil and water phases and contributes to the structure and sensory profile of emulsions.

Citric Acid

Type: Alpha hydroxy acid / organic acid

A naturally occurring organic acid found widely in citrus fruits and other biological systems.

In skincare: Functions primarily as a pH adjuster and chelating agent, and at suitable concentrations can also contribute to exfoliation.

Formulation note: Its cosmetic role depends heavily on concentration and final formulation pH.

Citric Acid Esters

Type: Ester derivatives

Derivatives of citric acid used in cosmetic formulations for various functional purposes.

In skincare: Depending on the specific ester, these ingredients may function as emollients, solvents, plasticizers, or formulation aids.

Collagen

Type: Structural protein

The principal structural protein family of connective tissues.

In skin: Collagen provides much of the structural framework of the dermal extracellular matrix and contributes to firmness and tensile strength.

Topical skincare: Hydrolyzed collagen and collagen-derived ingredients primarily function as film-forming and conditioning agents. Topically applied collagen should not be interpreted as directly replacing dermal collagen.

Colloidal Oatmeal

INCI: Avena Sativa Kernel Flour
Type: Botanical / finely milled oat preparation

A finely milled preparation of oat kernels containing proteins, lipids, polysaccharides, and other constituents.

In skincare: Used for soothing, moisturizing, cleansing, and skin-protective formulations, particularly for dry and sensitive-feeling skin.

Coenzyme Q10

Also known as: Ubiquinone
Type: Quinone / antioxidant

A naturally occurring lipid-soluble molecule involved in mitochondrial electron transport.

In skincare: Used primarily as an antioxidant and skin-conditioning ingredient in formulations targeting visible signs of environmental and oxidative stress.

Copper Peptides

Common example: Copper tripeptide-1
Type: Bioactive peptide complex

Peptides capable of binding copper ions and used in cosmetic formulations targeting the appearance of aging skin.

In skincare: Associated with skin conditioning, repair-supportive formulations, and the appearance of firmness and elasticity.

Formulation note: Peptide chemistry, copper availability, pH, and interactions with other formulation ingredients require careful consideration.

Cyclodextrins

Type: Cyclic oligosaccharides

Ring-shaped carbohydrate molecules capable of forming inclusion complexes with certain hydrophobic molecules.

In skincare: Can be used as solubilizing, stabilizing, odor-control, or delivery-supporting agents.

Formulation science: Their ability to encapsulate selected molecules makes them particularly interesting in advanced cosmetic delivery systems.

URIBHO INGREDIENT NOTE

An ingredient is never just a name on an INCI list.

Its chemical structure, concentration, purity, source, formulation environment, delivery system, pH, stability, interactions with other ingredients, and the biology of the skin all influence what it can actually do.

URIBHO Ingredient Glossary therefore treats ingredients through three connected lenses:

CHEMISTRY → FORMULATION → SKIN BIOLOGY

Because understanding an ingredient begins with understanding what it is—and ends with understanding what it does.